The Christmas Steps Bristol – Visit A Magical Diagon Alley Art Quarter

The Christmas Steps in Bristol is a spectacular hidden alleyway that looks like Diagon Alley from Harry Potter.

As you descend down the flagged steps, you’ll find antique shop signs creaking in the wind, whirligigs, and old oil lanterns that line the streets.

Today, this area is part of Bristol’s Art Quarter, a labyrinth of creative streets and boutiques.

But if you go back in time, this lane has a captivating history to uncover, with hidden gems that time has forgotten.

Inside this quirky tiered street, you’ll also discover a wealth of ancient buildings, independent art galleries, a cinema, and cosy pubs.

You’ll find plenty to do, so why not explore a different street for a change? Here is a complete guide to the Christmas Steps Bristol.

Why is it called the Christmas Steps?

This is a heated dispute, and many theories explain how this quaint area got its curious name.

You see, the name hasn’t always been the Christmas Steps, and it has been called many things over time. 

It’s been called St Michael’s Hill Steps, Queen Street Steps, and even Lunsford’s Stairs.

It officially changed from Queens Street to the Christmas Steps in 1775.

Many people say that it’s named after the Chapel of the Three Kings of Cologne. A stained glass window portrays a scene from the Nativity.

There have also been many wealthy merchants who lived in the city with the name ‘Christmas’ who were aldermen. 

But the most common theory is that it was so called due to the nearby Christmas Street.

So, I guess we’ll never know the exact reason for its festive name, and it will forever remain a mystery.

Christmas Steps history

Before this place was “steppered, done and finished” in 1669, this area was quite treacherous to walk up and down, especially in winter and at night. 

It was a slippery, muddy causeway leading down St Michael’s Hill to the Frome Bridge and St Bartholomew’s Hospital at the bottom.

The Barons de la Warre founded this chantry, almshouse, and church around 1227.

By 1497, a wealthy merchant called John Foster became the local High Sheriff and Mayor for Bristol.

He created the Chapel for the Three Kings of Cologne with the Almshouse at the top of the hill.

In 1643, Colonel Henry Lunsford was a Royalist Officer serving in the Civil War, and he was killed at the top of this lane during the Siege of Bristol.

“Steppered, done and finished”

John Blackwell, a former Sheriff of Bristol, made the improvements out of his own pocket.

He installed the two paved sloped pathways and three sets of flagged steps in the 17th century. 

You can find the plaque commemorating this event at the top of the hill, and the Mayor at the time opened it. It stands above the carved Sedilia seats.

St Bartholomew’s Hospital was then home to Bristol Grammar School, which later became part of Queen Elizabeth’s Hospital.

Various improvements were made in 1855 to widen the street and create more accessible steps.

Pubs here include The Gaiety, which later became the Three Sugar Loaves, referencing Bristol’s dark past and its connections to the slave trade.

Despite a brief decline in tourism, this area is now seeing a renaissance by becoming part of the vibrant Bristol Art Quarter.

This Grade II listed street now has many popular independent shops, art galleries, and pubs.

Is Christmas Steps haunted?

I love a good ghost story, and the Christmas Steps has a few juicy ones. I mean, a place this old is bound to have a few spirits?

In the 17th century, before the steps were built, gallows stood at the top of St Michael’s Hill, where convicted traitors were hanged. 

The locals would have a constant reminder of the consequences of breaking the law by the screams of convicts being led to their deaths.  

The stench would also last for days as the prisoners were left to hang there as a warning. Some say those criminals still haunt the streets. 

Apparently, house number 17 is thought to have been built on an old cemetery, and the residents feel a presence and a tingling up their spines.

There have also been sightings of a young Victorian girl sitting on one of the steps who is thought to have drowned in the river.

Things to do in the Christmas Steps

Although its past paints a pretty gruesome picture, today the area is enchanting, vibrant, and full of independent spirit.

There is so much to see, do and discover in this forgotten street.

As well as the wealth of antique shops, galleries and pubs, you also have some historical gems to find.  Here’s a list of attractions.

1. Art Galleries 

Well, it isn’t called the Christmas Steps Art Quarter for nothing. You’ll find a wealth of art galleries.

There is ‘That Art Gallery’ and ‘Art Rabbit ’, or the Christmas Steps Gallery.

What you may not know is the Art Quarter actually covers a labyrinth of eight or so streets in the area, so there will be plenty more to find. 

There is also an Artisan Market, which takes place on the first Saturday of every month.

2. Christmas Steps Pub

One highlight of my visit to this area was the Christmas Steps pub at the bottom of the hill. 

It used to be a famous pub called The Gaiety until it changed its name to the Three Sugar Loaves, referencing the sugar trade.

It has since changed hands and is now a popular cosy pub with plenty of the original features.

There are many nooks and crannies to hide into, and the tables have a special atmosphere at night time as they are lit by candlelight.

It also serves up pub favourites, including tasty vegan options, and has its own range of local beers and ales called ‘Crack’.

3. Chance & Counters

Chance & Counters is a board game café with a lovely backstory: three friends who met at university.

They were addicted to board games and always drunkenly talked about opening up their own café.

One day, they decided to club together to make it a reality and opened their doors here in 2016.

Now, they have a board game café empire with a few dotted around the country.

4. Go shopping in the maze of streets 

I love how Bristol supports its independent businesses, and there are plenty to choose from here.

From Weber & Trings, which sells potions in their off-licence, to a stamp shop, Karen Reilly’s Bridal Wear, and Trevor Jones’ Brass & Woodwind.

Remember, the Art Quarter has eight streets to explore, so don’t forget to veer off the Christmas Steps into the maze of boutiques.

Colston Street has the bookshop Bloom & Curll or the herbal Urban Fringe Dispensary. Or, Perry Road has a range of antique shops.

5. 20th Century flicks

20th Century Flicks is an awesome film-buff hangout hidden away right here on the steps. 

They have a whopping 20,000 DVDs and 3,000 VHS videos to hire, which is almost like a film library.

As well as their massive movie archive, they have two small cinemas available for screenings.

With only 29 seats for hire, it’s the city’s smallest movie house. 

This is perfect for film studies enthusiasts, film clubs, or anyone who simply wants to watch with friends.

But you’ll need to book in advance, as screening sessions book up fast. There is a range of snacks on site, like popcorn and drinks.

Talking of films, The Christmas Steps are no stranger to this area, which has been used as a location.  

‘The End of the Bridge’ was shot here in 1947. It was a short 40-minute film where the steps had their 15 minutes of fame.

6. Chapel of the Three Kings of Cologne

John Foster had a huge influence in Bristol in the 15th century.

He was a High Sheriff and Bristol Mayor, as well as a representative in Parliament for the county. 

As a wealthy merchant, he often travelled to Germany for trade, and he would have seen the shrine of the Three Kings in Cologne Cathedral. 

This inspired him to create his own chapel at the top of St Michael’s Hill, way before the steps had been ‘steppered’. 

He called it the Three Kings of Cologne Chapel, based on the Biblical Magi, the Three Wise Men of the East. 

Although you cannot go inside the chapel today as it’s private, you can still admire the building from the outside. 

7. Fosters Almshouses

Right next to the chapel is a curious house that looks like it could give the wings of Hogwarts a run for its money.

You’ll find spires, winding staircases, manicured gardens, as well as beautiful brick tilings in this little gated community.

This is another creation of John Foster, who founded this as an almshouse in 1483.

Traditionally, almshouses provided accommodation out of charity. It’s now private residential apartments.

You cannot enter, and it has a locked gate. But it’s definitely worth taking a photo of the fantastic architecture from outside.

8. Hidden secrets

• A 13th-century building here once housed Bobby’s Fish Bar, the oldest chippie in England.

• Much of St Bartholomew’s Court has been changed over time. But you can still find a beheaded statue of the Virgin Mary inside.

• A series of Sedilia seats has been carved out beneath the Chapel of the Three Kings of Cologne.

• A plaque is dedicated to Colonel Henry Lunsford. He was killed here during the Civil War in 1643. 

• Look out for two strange figures and a plaque removed from the Merchant Venturers Hall in Marsh Street.

• Another plaque commemorates the creation of the steps, and you’ll find “stepper’d, done and finished in September 1669”.

• One to find online: you can listen to a song by Mogwai. A Scottish post-rock band that named one of their songs ‘Christmas Steps’.

How to visit the Christmas Steps in Bristol

The Christmas Steps are open 24/7 for a wander, but the best time to visit is during the day, when the shops are open.

At night, the area also transforms into a lively spot, with two pubs at the bottom.

One thing I will say is that this place is steep. So wear sensible shoes and be prepared for a bit of panting to get to the top. 

If you’re heading here by bus, there is a stop at the bottom of the hill that has First Group and Stagecoach bus services. 

The nearest car park is the pay-and-display Trenchard Street Car Park.

Places near the Christmas Steps Art Quarter

After you’ve finished exploring the Art Quarter, there are plenty of things to do for art and history lovers nearby. 

The Red Lodge is a great little museum set in a historic family home where you can uncover 400 years of history.

Another great museum located on Park Street is the Georgian Museum, set in a historic Home. You can see what life was like for those with sugar money.

It quite literally rotted the teeth of the city and uncovers Bristol’s dark past with the slave trade. A must-see to learn the true history of Bristol.

Park Street is also one of my favourite streets. You’ll find plenty of vintage stores, record shops, second-hand books, and art shops.

Plus, visit Norman Bristol Cathedral for its impressive architecture, and the Bristol Art Gallery and Museum. 

Head down to Bristol Harbour to see the SS Great Britain parked in the dry dock or enjoy the maze of colourful houses in Cliftonwood. 

Why not head up to Cabot Tower? It is the highest point in Bristol, located in the centre. From this lookout, you can see 360-degree views.

Where to stay in Bristol

Hotel Du Vin near the Christmas Steps is set inside an 18th-century building and offers cosy rooms for rent in a charming luxury property.

The Berkeley Suites – a luxury apartment with a hotel twist in the centre of Bristol. Click here to book or read my full review.

Full Moon Backpackers – A cool and friendly backpacker hostel located in St Paul’s and near Stokes Croft. Click here for rates.

Save the Christmas Steps for later