Khari Baoli Market Guide – How to Find the Old Delhi Spice Market Rooftop
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Chandni Chowk is an assault on the senses for any traveller, but the area that tops them all is Khari Baoli, or the Old Delhi spice market.
As Asia’s largest spice market, you can be sure that this street is not only busy and chaotic, but the air will be filled with spices too.
It’s hot, crowded, intense, and you’ll be sneezing all the time. But it’s an experience you cannot miss when you’re here.
This is the place where all that aromatic flavour in those yummy curries and snacks comes from. Plus, you can buy spices to take home.
And if you’re a photography lover, Khari Baoli offers endless inspiration. Including the highly Instagrammable Old Delhi Spice Market Rooftop.
Here’s a complete Khari Baoli Market guide, including directions to the famous rooftop.
What is Khari Baoli or the Old Delhi Spice Market?
Khari Baoli is a famous street in Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi, known for selling wholesale spices, herbs, and nuts. It also sells bags of rice and tea.
Its origins date back to the 17th century, and it has remained a busy market area ever since. Today, it’s Asia’s largest spice market.
It’s also where the spice trade is organised across most of North India.
Khari Baoli trade routes stretch to Rajasthan, Jammu, and Kashmir, and even as far as Madhya Pradesh.
As you can imagine, this is a huge operation. Not only are there countless stalls, but also hundreds of carriers and people.
The history of Khari Baoli
This market’s origins trace back to the Khari Baoli stepwell, built by Khwaja Abdullah Laazar Qureshi during the reign of Salim Shah in 1551.
If you want to learn more about the historic stepwells in Delhi, read my guide on Agrasen ki Baoli.
Although nothing of the stepwell remains now, a community grew around this water source.
Later, people built religious buildings, including the Fatehpuri Masjid, built in 1650.
Fatehpuri Begum, or Empress Begum, built this mosque; she was one of Emperor Shah Jahan’s wives. He is famously known for the Taj Mahal.
Around this time, the market area became known as Khari Baoli. Khari means Salty and Baoli means Stepwell.
Most traders in Khari Baoli are now 9th- or 10th-generation owners from families that settled here in the 17th and 18th centuries.
You’ll find that many restaurants and traders in this part of the city have also made a reputable name for themselves.
Nowadays, it’s also one of the top tourist sites in Old Delhi and one you cannot miss from your list.
Facts about Khari Baoli
- Khari Baoli is Asia’s largest wholesale spice market
- Many street and trader names are the same as they were when the market was set up over 400 years ago.
- Although the market looks like utter chaos, it’s actually extremely organised, with well-planned operations.
- In addition to trading spices, the market also sells rice, tea, nuts, Ayurvedic medicines, and Khoya milk for making sweets.
When is the best time to visit?
The market is open every day except Sunday, and it runs from around 10 am to 8 pm in the evening.
But, like most of India, you’ll find that stalls open later if business is good.
The best time to visit Delhi is in winter, from November to February, when temperatures are much cooler and more tolerable.
If you visit in the summer season or monsoon, the heat can be unbearable.
I also recommend arriving early in the morning to avoid the midday sun. Walking around during the day will drain you.
Old Delhi spice market tour
If this is your first time visiting India and Delhi from the West, then this is definitely the place to arrive for a culture shock.
Khari Baoli is one of the busiest streets and trade operations in Chandni Chowk.
You’ll find rickshaws, pedestrians, bikes, cars, and people carrying spices on their heads.
You’ll smell the intense smell of spices, probably sneeze a few times and hear the loud bartering from people trading.
It’s hectic, loud, and almost appears like complete chaos. But it works, and it brings in millions of dollars every year.
As well as exploring the main street, this area is full of little alleyways and corners that would give Diagon Alley a run for its money.
If it’s your first time exploring Chandi Chowk, I would highly recommend hiring a guide or rickshaw to take you around and see the highlights.
You could go self-guided, but it may be difficult to find the right areas amongst the crowds. Plus, it’s nice to meet a local.
The first time I visited Chandni Chowk, I did a self-guided tour with my friend, and we hired a rickshaw (bike) to take us around the markets.
Our rickshaw driver acted as our guide, then stopped at Khari Baoli and allowed us to explore.
He also gave us some top tips for buying spices from reputable retailers.
Tips for buying spices in Khari Baoli
- Always go for a reputable retailer. The most famous shop in Khari Baoli is Mehar Chand and Sons. They were established in 1917.
- Although it’s a wholesale market, you don’t have to buy it by the kilo if you don’t want. Many of the shops cater to tourists’ suitcases.
- Most of the time the spices are weighed, and you pay the price for that day. But some of the ‘tourist’ packets are pre-paid.
- Most tour guides will take you to a reputable retailer. However, in my experience, there are no ‘fake’ spices or dodgy spice trade sellers.
- Saying this, watch out for pickpockets. Chandni Chowk is famous for petty theft on the streets.
- Avoid visiting Chandni Chowk alone late at night or in the early morning. It’s simply not safe.
How to find the Old Delhi Spice Market Rooftop
In recent years, one of the most famous spots in Khari Baoli has been the Old Delhi Spice Market Rooftop for photos.
It sits atop the Gadodia Market Complex building, built in the 1920s. This building is at the centre of Khari Baoli.
It’s actually a series of buildings with tight-knit alleyways, rooms, and corridors. There are around 4/5 floors to get to the top.
Most Old Delhi tours stop here, as it offers some of the best views of the old city.
You can see the endless houses, minarets of mosques, as well as a bird’s-eye view of the historic spice market.
On my first tour of Old Delhi, I almost missed this because I worried our guide was taking us somewhere dodgy. I didn’t trust it.
It’s actually in a dark building, down an alley, and you need to climb a dirty old staircase to access it.
This rooftop location is easy to miss and not the easiest to find on your own. Once you enter the Gadodia building, I would ask a local.
Personally, I recommend hiring a local to guide you to the top. This is especially important if you want to visit for sunrise.
Chandni Chowk is not safe in the early hours. Plus, it will be dark. So it’s best to hire a driver or rickshaw guide who can take you straight there.
One thing I would say about getting photos here is that all those famous Instagram photos with the pretty blankets are staged.
The views from here are just as pretty without all that fakery. However, if you did want to ‘stage’ a photo, you could organise your own.
Why not support some of the traders by buying marigolds and blankets in Chandni Chowk?
The best time to visit
Many people suggest visiting the Old Delhi spice market rooftop for sunrise.
To be fair, it is a lovely time with the morning light, and you’re there before the city wakes up.
However, I would personally visit when the market opens later in the morning. That way you can truly experience Khari Baoli at its finest.
It simply isn’t the same without the noise, the people, the spices, and the life that goes on around here.
Taking portraits of the locals, the busy laneways, and the colourful spices is also a great muse for your collection.
Where is Khari Baoli in Old Delhi?
Khari Baoli is a street in the Chandni Chowk area of Old Delhi. The easiest way to find the area is to locate the Fatehpuri Masjid mosque.
As above, I always recommend exploring Chandni Chowk on a tour. But you could go self-guided and hire someone to take you around from there.
The most convenient way to explore Delhi self-guided, in my opinion, is by taking the Delhi Metro.
The nearest metro station to Khari Baoli would be Chandni Chowk station.
Things to see in Old Delhi
Beyond the spice market, Chandni Chowk has an endless list of attractions on the heritage tourist circuit.
You can visit the famous Red Fort, built by Emperor Shah Jahan. This was a palace of Mughal royalty when the capital shifted from Agra to Delhi.
Or, you can visit India’s largest mosque, Jama Masjid, a red sandstone temple where you can climb up the minarets for a stunning view of the city.
If you’re looking for restaurants, I would recommend Karim’s, which is world-famous and featured on the BBC. Their goat curry is divine.
Popular street food would be from the Kuramel Kulfi Wala, the Jain Coffee House for sandwiches, or Shayam’s Sweets – the best samosas in town.
A great rooftop view of Chandni Chowk is from the Haveli Dharampura; they have a rooftop restaurant that overlooks the domes of Jama Masjid.
Book an Old Delhi tour
A great way to explore Old Delhi without getting overwhelmed as a tourist is to take a tour.
As one of the most popular tourist spots in the city, you’ll find a variety of ways to experience it.
Click here to book a heritage walking tour of Old Delhi. Or, if you want to book something in advance, you could book a Rickshaw ride here.
Personally, I loved taking an Old Delhi Cycle Tour where we got to see Chandni Chowk wake up with breakfast at Kharim’s.
Or, if you’re a foodie lover, why not go on an Old Delhi Street Food Tour? You can learn about and sample traditional foods.
More Delhi photography spots
The Old Delhi spice market rooftop and Chandni Chowk are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to photography spots in Delhi.
Delhi is a huge city with many amazing districts to photograph.
From the tombs of royalty, ancient stepwells, pretty gardens, impressive temples, and street art – it really has it all.
Related Post: The Ultimate Delhi Photography Guide
Where to stay in Delhi
Delhi is huge, chaotic, and busy at all times of the day. Where you stay in the city can greatly affect whether you enjoy it as a tourist.
Most travellers tend to choose Paharganj. You can stay at Yes Please Treebo Natraj or the mid-range Hotel Ajanta.
For more luxurious residences, I’d always choose The Imperial New Delhi, Taj Palace, or the Leela Ambience near the airport.
For hostels, I like the Zostel chain. They come highly recommended, and Zostel Delhi is located in Connaught Place.
Recommended Travel Resources
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Read my India travel guides
Agrasen ki Baoli – the most haunted place in Delhi!
The ultimate Rajasthan itinerary
A first timers guide to Jaipur
My complete guide for Rishikesh
Discover India
Save Khari Baoli & Old Delhi spice market
Hi, Great Blog!
How much did you tip for portrait photo for people on the street?
Hi Audrius, I wasn’t aiming for street photography or photographing people but if you feel like tipping i’d have small notes prepped. Like 10, 20, 50, 100 rupees etc. Thanks, Sophie x