St Martin’s Church Cwmyoy – Visit the Most Crooked Church in Britain

Did you know that the most crooked church in Britain is in a sleepy valley in Bannau Brycheiniog? It’s called St Martin’s Church Cwmyoy.

It’s a 12th-century wonky temple that leans even further than the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Every wall, roof, and tower is out of alignment.

You’re probably wondering why and how the construction of this church went so sideways (excuse the bad pun). 

There is so little recorded history that its crookedness is shrouded in mystery, legend, and magic. 

This lopsided enigma has attracted visitors for centuries and has gained it the title of ‘Church of the Year’ more than once. 

Here’s a complete guide to the most crooked church in Britain, St Martin’s Church Cwmyoy.

Why is St Martin’s Church Cwmyoy crooked?

There are many legends surrounding St Martin’s Church in Cwmyoy.

According to folklore, this area was the location of an ancient landslide that took place during Christ’s crucifixion.

Afterwards, darkness descended over the land, and it stopped the church’s ability to stand straight.

Scientifically speaking, the crookedness was the result and lasting legacy of the Ice Age that happened over 10,000 years ago.

As the temperatures rose and the ice melted, a glacial valley appeared nearby, which caused the land to slide. 

If you look just beyond the church, you can still see a big ‘crack’ on the side of the mountain. This is why Cwmyoy has a nickname, the ‘Valley of Yoke’. 

The history of St Martin’s Church in Cwmyoy

Records show that there was a religious site here before the Norman Conquest. But construction started in the 12th century.

It was a place dedicated to St Martin of Tours, the third bishop and saint of Tours in France.

This location became a popular stop on the pilgrimage to St David’s Cathedral in Pembrokeshire. 

The walk would see pilgrims travel through the Black Mountains to the likes of Llanthony Priory.

The Cwmyoy Crucifix that we see inside the church would have been venerated by Christians on their holy expedition.

There are very few historical records. However, we do know that William De Lacy ‘moved in’ after the Norman Conquest of 1100.

His son, Hugh de Lacy, decided to build a new manor home and church at Cwmyoy, which was served by priests from Llanthony Priory.

Most of the church dates to the 13th century, and the structure was constantly renovated over 300 years as it wouldn’t stop leaning.

In fact, it’s thought that the church went lopsided very early on in the medieval era. By some miracle, the church roof remained intact.

Unfortunately, during the Dissolution of the Monasteries initiated by Henry VIII, Llanthony Priory was dissolved in 1538.

As a consequence, the church was abandoned by Llanthony priests and the manor was gifted to Sir Nicholas Arnold, Lord Chief Justice for Ireland.

Following this, there was a major renovation in 1887 to tame the leaning tower of Cwmyoy.

Aside from the famous crucifix relic, the most notable monuments are carvings for memorials made by the Brute Family.

The Most Crooked Church in Great Britain

Today, St Martin’s Church is a Grade I listed building and has been called the Crookedest Church in Britain.

The entire church is out of alignment, not just the parish steeple.

Simon Jenkins called it a ‘galleon in a storm with the chancel about to slide overboard’.

The walls don’t stand straight, the corners don’t meet, the church ends slant in different ways. It makes you feel a bit dizzy.

The most famous feature is the church tower, which leans at an alarming 6 feet over its true position.

To put it into context, the Leaning Tower of Pisa leans around 4.2 degrees from its true position. Whereas St Martin’s leans out at 5.2 degrees.

Is the church going to tilt further?

No. Thankfully, buttresses were installed during the 1960s to stop the tower from tilting any further. 

They did this by placing tie beams and metal rods within the walls. You won’t see them, but it does give you some reassurance.

It would be a tragedy for this quirky church to tumble. It’s now a popular stop on the Cistercian Way and sees many visitors each year. 

Is the church crooked inside? 

Yes. In fact, it’s even more interesting to see the full effect that the Ice Age landslide had on this Gothic church.

It feels like you’re entering a galleon in a storm. You’ll find the corners don’t meet, the archways and doors are slanted, and even the pews tilt.

It reminded me of an optical illusion or one of the funhouses at the fair. You’ll feel unsteady, and the room seems like it’s going to move from under you. 

You must go inside during a visit. If only to look upon the Cwmyoy Crucifix, which has had its own remarkable journey.

The Cwmyoy Crucifix

Remember earlier when I mentioned that this church is a stop on an ancient pilgrimage? 

Well, the Cwmyoy crucifix was the ancient relic that pilgrims would have worshipped.

Wayside crosses were installed throughout the UK to mark religious sites in the fight over Paganism. 

Once Christians had ‘won over’ the locals in that place, a stone cross was placed at the site to show that the land was now Christian.

It was almost like a modern-day advertisement board.

Cwmoy Crucifix was a wayside cross that was planted at the site in the 11th century. This would have marked the area of St Martin’s.

It has an unusual carving of Christ on the Cross wearing a mitre-esque headdress.

Some experts say that this headdress would have been similar to those worn in the Holy Roman Empire during the 11th century.

Other theories suggest the headdress can also be found on Irish crucifix carvings.

When the Dissolution of the Monasteries took place in 1538 and Llanthony Priory fell, the crucifix was buried in the churchyard.

Luckily, Henry VIII’s men didn’t even try to recover it due to its remote location.

A local farmer dug it up in 1861 and gifted it to the church in 1935. Unfortunately, the crucifix was stolen in 1967.

It was eventually recovered a few years later in a London Antique Shop. By the Keeper of Sculpture at the British Museum, no less.

It was then returned to its rightful place, unfortunately, without its stepped base.

It was then set in stone to ensure that it can be seen by all who visit in future generations. 

The weeping chancel

Another notable visitor of St Martin’s Church was Monmouthshire writer and artist, Fred Hando.

He famously described the church chancel as a weeping one and claimed that the non-alignment of the nave and chancel axes was deliberate. 

The weeping chancel was meant to represent the body of Christ in death.

Where the nave stands in for the body, and the chancel represents the head falling to the right.

Brute family sculptures

As mentioned before, there are several skilfully carved funeral monuments scattered throughout the church. 

These were all made by three generations of the notable Brute family, a group of famous masons within the Black Mountains. 

They lived in the remote village of Llanbedr in Crickhowell within Powys. But you’ll often find their work in Monmouthshire (Gwent), and Llanelli.

It’s well worth having a look around here as the monuments are so well preserved.

Maybe it’s due to its remote location and the lack of visitors, but the carvings almost look brand new.

How to visit St Martin’s Church in Cwmyoy

St Martin’s Church is tucked away in the Vale of Cwmyoy in the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons).

It’s only a 4-mile journey to Llanthony Priory, so it’s well worth combining both places on a road trip.

The only downside is that the drive to get here is difficult. Henry VIII famously avoided this place as it was so remote.

There isn’t ‘official’ parking here, but there is an off-road lay-by where you can park with consideration next to the church. 

Despite being in the middle of nowhere, I would still say a journey is worth it to see this gorgeous church.

The easiest way to get here is to drive or approach on foot, as there are no bus services nearby.

Opening times 

This church is still an active place of worship in Cwmyoy and services regularly take place, usually on Sundays.

St Martin’s doors are usually left open throughout the week, during the day, for curious visitors who want to board the wonky galleon.

There is no electricity inside, and the church relies on natural lighting. So, it’s best to visit during daylight hours.

Although there is no charge for visiting the church itself, kind donations are appreciated for the upkeep. 

Llanthony Priory

If you are driving through the Black Mountains, I recommend a visit to Llanthony Priory after you visit St Martin’s Church.

This was the original priory founded by William de Lacy after the Norman Conquest.

This gorgeous hermitage was home to the Augustinian canons and is tucked away in the Vale of Ewyas, with over 900 years of history.

Although the priory today is a ruin, what is left is absolutely breathtaking, along with the dramatic backdrop of the Black Mountains. 

It’s completely free to visit, and you can pop inside the Llanthony Priory Hotel, which jointly owns the land along with Cadw. 

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