Leopold Cafe Mumbai - A Must-Visit For Shantaram Fans

⋆˙⟡♡︎ This post may contain affiliate links. Please see my disclosure policy for details. Thanks for your support ⋆˙⟡♡︎

If you’re heading to the Colaba District, then you cannot miss a visit to the famous Leopold Cafe in Mumbai.

This iconic landmark in the city has had a tragic history in the past and unfortunately became known due to the 2008 Mumbai attacks.

Before that, it was a popular Irani café and traveller hangout, and it featured in the novel Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts.

Fans of Shantaram will need no introduction and may be pleasantly surprised to learn the café exists in real life! It’s a must if you’ve read it.

Here’s a complete guide to Leopold Cafe Mumbai. Where you can eat amazing food and follow in the footsteps of Lin Ford.

Table of Contents

Why is Leopold Cafe famous?

The Colaba District, or ‘Old Mumbai ‘, has a wealth of history and many restaurants that have been running here for years.

From the Sultanate to Portuguese settlers to the British Raj. Bombay, as Mumbai was previously known, has had a turbulent past.

So, you’re probably wondering why this particular café is so famously known by locals and travellers alike.

First, Leopold Cafe is one of the city’s original Irani cafés. Iranis is the term used for Zoroastrians in Mumbai who settled here in the 19th century.

Secondly, it is known for being a target of the tragic 2008 terrorist attack. It has since become an icon of defiance against terror for Mumbaikars.

Thirdly, it’s popular with foreign tourists and fans of the novel Shantaram, which features it prominently in Gregory David Roberts’s tale.

The outside of Leopold Cafe Mumbai — *By I, Greg O’Beirne, CC BY-SA 3.0*

Leopold Cafe History

Leopold Cafe was founded in 1871 by Iranis and began as a humble wholesale oil store.

Over the years, the café took many forms, including that of a pharmacy and a popular restaurant in Colaba.

Its prime location, multicultural menu, chilled beers, and buzzing atmosphere made it a popular hangout for foreign tourists.

Unfortunately, its worst chapter was yet to take place. In 2008, it was the target of a callous attack that shook the city.

The 26 – 11 – 2008 Mumbai Attacks

Tragically, Leopold Café was one of the first places in Mumbai to be in the line of fire for the 2008 attacks.

This was when ten Pakistani men, who were associated with the extremist Islamic terror group Lashkar-e-Tayyiba (LeT), invaded several buildings.

In their brief reign of terror that lasted four days, they ended up killing 164 people in the process and wounding hundreds more.

Their main target was the Taj Mahal Palace. But they targeted Leopold Cafe for just 90 seconds at around 9.30 pm that evening.

During that time, they set the building ablaze and threw grenades inside. They also fired gunshots, which ended up killing eight people.

Despite this tragic attack, the café defiantly reopened just four days later.

The café also never repaired some of the damage from that night, leaving it as a reminder. You will still see the bullet holes in the walls.

Nowadays, it is seen as an icon of defiance against terror in the city for many locals in Mumbai.

taj mahal palace mumbai — *Taj Mahal Palace*

Leopold Cafe in Shantaram

This café was a superstar in the city years before it was ever mentioned in Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts in 2003.

Since then, it has drawn in many tourists who want to follow in the footsteps of the mysterious Lin Ford.

I won’t reveal too much of the story or any spoilers, but the plot follows an Australian bank robber and heroin addict who escapes prison.

He then flees to Bombay with a fake passport. So, we never really know if his name is Lin.

The novel’s title comes from the fact that Lin hires a guide named Prabaker to show him around.

They travel to Prabaker’s village, Sunder, and his mother gives Lin the nickname Shantaram.

This is a Marathi word (Maharashtra language) that means ‘Man of God’s Peace’.

Of course, it’s quite ironic given the nature of Lin’s past. But, I guess that’s why it’s so popular. It makes you question things.

The story actually mirrors parts of Gregory David Roberts’s life. In the 80s, Roberts himself was an armed robber and heroin addict.

He escaped an Australian prison and fled to a Bombay slum. He set up a health clinic and worked for the mafia as a money launderer, forger, and street soldier.

He learned Marathi, fell in love, acted in Bollywood, and even fought the Mujahedeen in Afghanistan.

It is said he had to rewrite Shantaram three times because prison guards destroyed his first two copies. A testament to his willpower.

This novel is a great one to read before you visit Mumbai or to ‘virtually’ travel there.

The pages are so well described and really make you feel like you’re wandering the streets of Bombay with Lin.

Of all the locations in Bombay, this cafe features the most. In both Roberts’ novels, Shantaram and the sequel Mountain Shadow.

The Leopold Cafe is described as a “mystic, dark place…constantly crowded”

He’s not wrong. It is constantly crowded, and you’ll see that for yourself when you visit in Mumbai.

Pick up a copy of the Shantaram here

Will there be a Shantaram movie?

Yes, a TV Series of The Shantaram was filmed in Australia in 2022, starring Charlie Hunnam.

You may know him as Jax Teller in Sons of Anarchy. Since then, this café has become even more popular.

Why you need to visit the Leopold Cafe in Mumbai

The Shantaram connections, unique heritage and tasty food make this restaurant one of the top places to eat in Colaba.

It is just as popular, if not more popular, than ever and remains a regular hangout for locals and foreign tourists visiting the city.

The atmosphere is lively with conversation; it packs out almost every day, plus it has an amazingly diverse menu.

From tasty breakfast to beer towers, curries to kulfi’s – there is always a reason to visit Leopold’s.

British Girl pouring Leopold Cafe Beer Tower — *Leopold Cafe beer towers*

What to expect

Just like in Shantaram, you can expect this place to be constantly crowded from morning till night.

It’s incredibly tight-knit with tables close together. These are always filled with people eating, drinking, laughing and talking.

Unfortunately, you can’t make reservations in advance. Usually, reservation signs are just to stop people from taking a table.

Although it is tempting to leave when this happens, don’t write it off just yet! People always leave, and it won’t take long to get a seat.

You can’t help but notice the amazing hotch-potch of posters and artwork on the walls.

You’ll find famous Bollywood Movies, vintage advertisements, and even legendary Hollywood actors surrounding you.

The service is excellent, with waiters in their Leopold T-shirts. You’ll see them whizzing around.

It doesn’t take long to take your order. This can be a bit of a whirlwind as there is simply so much to choose from on their menu.

Leopold Cafe Menu & Beer Towers

The menu here is huge and has a wide range of multicultural cuisine. You’ll find Indian curries all the way down to fries, burgers, and pizza.

The café is open all day, so you can pop inside for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or for drinks and snacks.

We ended up coming here for an early supper and opted for their Butter Chicken or Murgh Murkani with rice. It’s one of the best I’ve had in India.

As well as food, the café offers the ever-popular Kingfisher beer towers that you can have with your dinner.

We went for one of these, and it was huge. A lot to get through for two, but after a hot day of exploring Mumbai, we managed pretty easily.

Buying some Leopold souvenirs

Although it may gain you the title of a super-tourist, one of the staple things to do at Leopold’s is to buy one of their famous T-shirts or souvenirs.

My friend and I both got a T-shirt on our visit, and it stayed with me on my travels in India. I even wear it now.

It usually has their name and the Lion logo, the Achaemenid Persian Lion Rhyton. This is a statement of their Iranian Zoroastrian heritage.

It’s just got to be done. You’ll find their small souvenir stall at the back of the restaurant.

For my purchase, they threw in an awesome vintage Leopold postcard. This now has an honorary place in my India travel scrapbook.

Where is Leopold Cafe in Mumbai?

Leopold Cafe is located in the Colaba area of Mumbai. It stands opposite the Olympia Coffee House on Shahid Bhagat Singh Road.

The best way to reach the café is to walk from Colaba Causeway.

You’ll instantly see the huge red sign that hangs above the door and a queue of patrons patiently waiting for a seat.

It’s around a five-minute walk from the Taj Mahal Palace and the Gateway of India.

Alternatively, you could hail one of the black-and-yellow cabs (make sure the meter is switched on) or book an Uber.

Gateway of India in Mumbai — *The view from my room in Mumbai*

Leopold Cafe opening hours

The Cafe is open every day from 7.30 am – 12 am. So you can easily fit it into your Mumbai itinerary.

It’s extremely popular, so if you want a quieter visit, I suggest going for breakfast or early in the morning.

By lunchtime, it’s packed out for the rest of the day until the evening. As before, you can’t make reservations, but the tables clear quickly.

Things to do in Mumbai

Mumbai is hectic, hot, and overwhelming, but it’s also one of the most inspiring cities to visit in all of India.

It’s home to slums and poverty, yet you can also spot Bollywood actors and rent prices that compare with London.

Bombay is truly a melting pot of culture, cuisine, and a city that never sleeps.

As a megacity, it has many attractions to visit. However, I would try to centre your itinerary around certain places or districts.

Colaba is a great place to start with the Gateway of India, Elephanta Caves, Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus station, and the Chhatrapati Shivaji Museum.

My top tip: avoid trying to squeeze in too much, since it’s a metropolis.

Related Post: The Ultimate Mumbai Travel Guide