Upper Lusatian Library of Sciences – How to Visit in Görlitz (2026)!
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One of the libraries I have wanted to visit for an age is the magical Upper Lusatian Library of Sciences in Görlitz.
Also known as the ‘Triumphal Arches of Knowledge’, this unique tunnel library looks like something from a fairytale.
It forms part of the Barockhaus built in the 18th century and is a cultural history museum today.
On my recent trip to Germany, I discovered that Görlitz was a very easy day trip by train from Dresden. So, I jumped at the chance to visit.
Exploring this library was a dream come true and made my bookish heart so happy! You must go if you’re a reading lover.
Here is the ultimate guide on how to visit the Upper Lusatian Library of Sciences with everything you need to know.
Introducing the Barockhaus in Görlitz
The Barockhaus was built in 1729 on the site of two former breweries which burned down during a fire.
The house was constructed, thankfully with fire safety regulations in mind, for a rich trader named Christian Ameiss who came from Zittau.
The inspiration for the house was taken from the ‘Durchhaus’ in Leipzig which featured a large central courtyard that stretched the entire length of the house.
As well as a trader hub, the house was first and foremost the Ameiss family residence.
So, it was fitted with lavish Baroque apartments which were fashionable at the time and adorned with stucco ceilings, decor and furnishings.
In 1779, Karl Gottlob von Anton purchased the house and it later became the seat of the Upper Lusatian Society of Sciences.
It was also the location of a Freemason lodge. Zur gekrönten Schlange or ‘The Crowned Serpent’ held meetings and initiation ceremonies here. You can still see their ‘Black Room’ today!
The society owned a vast collection of knowledge which they stored in their Baroque library known as the ‘Triumphal Arches of Knowledge’.
The history of the Upper Lusatian Library of Sciences
After the society moved to the Barockhaus, members felt that Upper Lusatia lacked a prestigious academic library.
One of the aims of the organisation was to promote learning and scientific developments in the region.
So, many of them donated books from their private collection and the result was the Upper Lusatian Library of Sciences where it has remained ever since.
The library is quite unique in style as the shelves arc over the middle of the room as opposed to being lined up against the walls.
It’s meant to resemble a stage where the books are the stars of the show!
During WWII, many of the books were transferred out of the library to eastern Görlitz for safety.
Unfortunately, they were never returned after the area became part of Poland.
The library was later banned by the Soviet Union. It was finally restored in the 1950s after the city took over ownership.
Today, the library has over 140,000 volumes in its collection including rare books and medieval incunabula.
The oldest book is an 11th-century codex. According to the library, this was created by a famous mystic called Jakob Böhme.
This book trove has to be one of the most beautiful libraries in the entire world and anyone who loves books must make a visit.
Did you know? This is the most extensive library located between Dresden in Germany and Wrocław in Poland!
Can you visit the Upper Lusatian Library of Sciences today?
Yes, bibliophiles will be happy to know that anyone can visit the Upper Lusatian Library of Sciences today as it’s part of the Barockhaus museum.
You can take a self-guided tour to see the ‘Triumphal Arches of Knowledge’ and explore some of the library’s unique collections in their exhibition.
The library is located in the fairytale town of Görlitz in eastern Germany which is on the border of Poland.
It’s a very easy day trip from the historic city of Dresden in Saxony and the journey only takes around an hour by regional train.
I highly recommend purchasing the Deutschland Ticket for public transport in Germany. This is a train ticket which has unlimited travel all over the country for just €49 euros a month.
How to find the Barockhaus in Görlitz
It’s good to note that there isn’t much public transport in the Old Town of Görlitz as it’s mainly pedestrianised.
The walk will take you around 20 minutes from Görlitz Train Station.
This pretty station is worth checking out as it looks like something from a Wes Anderson movie (more on this below).
The good news is that this whimsical town is quite compact and it’s easy to navigate to the Rathaus (Town Hall) in the Untermarkt.
From here, you will find the entrance to the Barockhaus Museum. This is in the southeast corner of Neißstraße.
The exact address is Neißstraße 30. Click here for a Google Pin!
Barockhaus opening times and ticket prices
The Barockhaus is open to the public every day of the week except Mondays and it’s usually open from 10 am – 4 pm / 5 pm / 6 pm depending on the month.
Entry to the museum is € 6 for an adult, € 4 for discounts and all those under 18 get in for free.
I would recommend purchasing their combo ticket for € 9 which gets you access to their other museums which are the Kaisertrutz Museum and Reichenbach Tower.
You can buy tickets from the cash desk in the courtyard which has a cute gift shop. Then, you will enter the museum in the opposite building.
Something I loved about the museum is that many of the information boards at the Barockhaus have been translated into English. So, you don’t need an audioguide.
You must put your larger bags in lockers. These work with a euro coin which you will get back after your visit. Also, Selfie sticks/tripods are not allowed.
Entering the Baroque library
When you first enter the museum, you will arrive in the family apartments but I made a beeline to the library as I was buzzing with anticipation.
When entering the library, you’ll walk through a traditional archive with books lined up in cages along the wall.
Part way though, there is a room set up like a study for the Upper Lusatian Society of Sciences. This is how they would have used the library back then.
A little further on and you’ll arrive at their precious books exhibition (more on this later).
Then, finally, you will reach the highlight which is the Baroque Library.
Exploring the Arches of Knowledge
Words cannot describe how I felt as I finally got to visit the Upper Lusatian Library of Sciences.
I honestly nearly cried I was that overwhelmed. I have wanted to visit this space for so long and finally getting here was *everything*.
The entire library, with its book arches and old cosy books, looks like something from a fantasy world.
Traditionally, you can’t enter the book arches as they are blocked off with a glass screen.
But, by a twist of fate, there was a small group having a tour and the kind tour guide let me inside.
I was stunned and it felt so surreal to walk through the book arches. That’s how I was able to get these lovely photos.
It was genuinely a dream come true to see all the old book spines up close.
I was also able to get a look at an original copy of the Nuremberg Chronicle or Schedelsche Weltchronik from 1493.
The illustration on the displayed page of the walled city was spectacular!
I play a puzzle game series called Lost Lands where they have recreated this library in the game.
It forms part of the Ancient Academy of Magicians and you can explore all the library shelves while playing. So, I was over the moon to be able to visit in ‘real life’.
Note: On a standard self-guided visit, you cannot go inside the library arches. If you also want to go inside, you must book a special guided tour that allows entry.
Precious books exhibition
You cannot handle any of the books inside the library. But, don’t fret as the Barockhaus have most of their prized collection on display for you.
This exhibition mainly showcases their huge collection of ‘controversial’ bibles which have been sourced from as far as China.
There are also other items on display like incunabula. These are books printed during the earliest period of typography in the 15th century.
Many of these books are hand-scripted with ink and natural pigments. So, these are priceless and irreplaceable historic treasures.
Other things to do in the Barockhaus
After you have visited the Baroque Library, you can explore the first floor which has been set up with lavish living quarters of the Ameiss family.
There are dining rooms, salons and bedrooms that paint a perfect picture of how this rich family would have lived back then.
If you head up to the second floor, you can see more historic book archives and a series of cabinets.
You can explore the Physical Cabinet, the Literature and Music Cabinet, the Antiquities Cabinet and the Natural History Cabinet.
These contain scientific instruments, celestial globes, portrait galleries, coin collections, textiles and archaeological finds that once belonged to the society.
Freemasons ‘Black Room’
One of the most intriguing rooms in the entire museum is the ‘Black Room’ on the second floor.
This belonged to the Freemasons Zur gekrönten Schlange or ‘The Crowned Serpent’.
It was used to perform their initiation rites. You will see a skull, candle, sand timer and bible in a display cabinet.
After an initiate had passed their series of tests, they were able to enter the Freemason Lodge.
‘The Crowned Serpent’ held a seat here in Görlitz until 1865. All the Freemason Lodges were later forced to close and the Soviets refused to allow them to reopen.
Is visiting the Upper Lusatian Library of Sciences worth it?
Yes, I highly recommend visiting this library as it is hands down one of the most beautiful libraries in the entire world!
These Triumphal Arches of Knowledge filled with priceless historic books are so unique and are an absolute joy to experience.
Görlitz isn’t the first place that people flock to in Germany but this fairytale town is highly underrated and will surprise you.
There are plenty of things to do here along with the Baroque library that make it worth visiting.
Don’t skip a visit to the Upper Lusatian Library of Sciences in Germany. It awaits to delight you!
Top tips for visiting
- Check opening times – it’s always best to check opening times before you go to make sure the library will be open.
- Get there early – although Görlitz isn’t as packed as the cities, this museum does get quite busy with tour groups.
- Have cash with you – cash is very much king in Germany. The museum does take cards but many places around the town only take cash.
- Photography – you can take photos and videos inside but you cannot use flash. Tripods are not allowed.
- Access – Remember that there is a glass screen that blocks you from entering the library unless you book a tour that allows it!
Other things to do in Görlitz
Beyond the library, Görlitz is such a beautiful town in Germany and the entire place looks like it’s been plucked from the pages of a fairytale.
Part of the charm is wandering around the Old Town and Untermarkt with its cobbled streets, colourful buildings and Town Hall.
Why not send a message via the Whispering Arch at House 22?
You can whisper something into the door arch on one side and it can be understood on the other!
You can head inside the Kaisertrutz Museum with your combo ticket which has fabulous historical exhibits and art galleries from Upper Lusatia.
Then, you can climb up the impressive Reichenbach Tower. From the top, you get incredible panoramic views over the entire town and beyond.
Why not visit a different country while you’re here? If you head down to the Lusatian Neisse River you can cross over the Old Town Bridge into Poland.
If you’re a film buff, then you may like to take a ‘Görliwood’ tour of the town as they have recorded some famous films here such as The Grand Budapest Hotel.
The Grand Budapest Hotel
Görlitz is often nicknamed ‘Görliwood’ as this fairytale town is Hollywood’s favourite filming location in Germany.
The most famous movie you may recognise is Wes Anderson’s The Grand Budapest Hotel.
I absolutely adore this movie and I had so much fun hunting down all of the filming locations here.
The main location you can visit is the abandoned Kaufhaus department store which features as the lobby of The Grand Budapest Hotel.
As it’s currently empty, you must call ahead to organise a tour in order to visit.
The phone number is on a sign at the door (very old school) but they do have this website with contacts on.
The tours normally take place at 10.30 am and 1 pm and cost 5 euros. It will be in German but you’ll receive a written translation.
I just loved being inside and taking some photos of this beautiful place! It was surreal.
They are planning on restoring the Kaufhaus to its former glory. The kind lady who ran my tour explained the plans and even had a little shop of souvenirs she makes inside!
Exploring ‘Görliwood’
Other famous movies such as Around the World in 80 Days, The Reader, The Book Thief and Inglourious Basterds have also been filmed here.
The town is very passionate about its filming location tourism and you can head to the tourist information centre to pick up a FREE Görliwood map.
But, if you want to take all the work out of finding them, I recommend taking one of their Görliwood tour buses.
The filming location tours last around an hour and have a commentary about all the places that feature in your favourite films.
Where to eat in Görlitz
There is only one place that comes to mind to eat in Görlitz and that is the Ratscafé which is very close to the Rathaus.
This gorgeous pink and grey building is not only a filming location in The Grand Budapest Hotel but also serves up some delicious regional and Italian cuisine.
I had a delicious mushroom and white wine pasta here and, as it was great weather, I was able to dine outside with a spectacular view of the town hall and square.
The staff were also really lovely and I would highly recommend them. It is very popular though so be prepared to queue for a table.
Their menu is in German and Polish, so have something like Google Translate to help you if you need to read it in English!
Recommended Travel Resources
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Read more of my Germany travel guides
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Is visiting Munich Residenz worth it?
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The baroque hidden gem of Asamkirche
Discover Nymphenburg Palace in Munich
How to visit Wiblingen Abbey Library
Is it worth going inside Neuschwanstein Castle
Visiting Neuschwanstein Castle in winter
Why you shouldn’t skip Hohenschwangau Castle
Pfunds Molkerei – a Beautiful Dairy Shop in Dresden
Stunning Duchess Anna Amalia Library in Weimar
Visiting Charlottenburg Palace in Berlin
Tips for visiting the Brandenburg Gate
How to visit the Drachenschlucht in Eisenach (Dragon Gorge)
Discover Germany
Save the Upper Lusatian Library of Sciences for later!
